![]() Re-do the cabling.twin & earth is not acceptable.Ĭheck all the wiring and controls.highly likely to be non compliant.Ĭheck the structural support.chipboard is not really acceptable.įill in the cylinder label and notify to building control and receive the control notice from them. Re-do the safety valve pipework and fit a tundish and check where the termination is. Check your local building codes I really doubt that the. Ask Question Asked 3 years, 6 months ago. Re-routing discharge pipe from hot water heaters T&P relief valve. Raise the pressure reducing valve/expansion valve inlet set above the cylinder for easy maintainence.Ĭheck there's a drain-off on the cylinder. Stack Exchange network consists of 182 Q&A communities including Stack Overflow, the largest, most trusted online community for developers to learn. Needs a proper full bore ball valve for inlet isolation. No balanced cold take-off by the look of it. Who's stolen the immersion heater.needs installing/wiring for backup.Įxpansion vessel plumbed into the wrong connection.Ĭheck the expansion vessel pre-charge pressure. Get a G3 licenced installer and at least the following needs checking/doing. Who installed it.they can be prosecuted for such illegal work. What would be the ball park cost to supply and fit the valve, tundish and utilise existing pipes? One quote I have appears excessive - north of £600. Surely to unitise the existing PP pipe for overflow is the most convenient?ģ. Is there no chance of a tundish spilling water? Are there enclosed ones available with a glass or similar window?Ģ. I believe the tundish gives a visual sign of water, but its an open fitting. The TPR valve will activate if either water temperature (measured in degrees Fahrenheit) or pressure (measured in pounds per square inch PSI) exceed safe levels. I've looked on NHBC who produce a technical guidance document 8.1/26 that states that indeed the overflow should include a tundish, which I dont have, but does state that plastic overflow pipe work is an acceptable alternative to copper.ġ. I have been told that the pressure relief valve requires replacement and the overflow MUST discharge via tundish and copper pipework. ![]() It appears the muppet who installed it did not do a proper job and will not return to fix. Simply drain some water from the heater, take out the discharge tube, remove. The best step to take is to replace the valve with a new one, which usually costs less than 20 and is easy to install. ![]() ![]() The cylinder is overflowing only when the cylinder is being heated. If the overflow valve slowly leaks out a small amount of water, the problem is usually the valve itself, which has become either too old or damaged. I have a water discharge issue via the overflow from my unvented cylinder. ![]()
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